Monday, July 27, 2009

DAY 4 in HAWAII

Today we decided to explore more of Oahu. We drove up the Windward Shore and then up around the North Shore. It was one of our busier days. We didn't get to see all the sites we had hoped, but we did see a lot of amazing things!

THE PALI LOOKOUT

It was a cloudy morning as we drove towards the Windward Shore through the Nu'uanu Valley in the Ko'olau Mountains on Hwy. 61. It sprinkled on us off and on as we drove in our jeep. Just as we passed the first tunnel through the mountain, we came to the Pali Lookout. It's probably the most famous lookout on Oahu. We didn't have a lot of expectation, but we were floored by the panoramic view! I wouldn't have been able to take a picture that could come close to portraying the glorious view we saw. We could see for miles and miles along the Windward Coast. And the cliffs of the Ko'olau mountains with the blanket of clouds above were so picturesque. We stayed for some time soaking in the beauty at this lookout. But it was quite windy. We discovered that since the Pali Lookout was in a slit in the mountains, it was easy for the trade winds to funnel right through.

There were many plaques to read at the lookout and we discovered much history here. We saw and read about the remains of an old road that led down the mountain from the Pali Lookout, called the Old Pali Road. Until this old Pali Road was built many years ago, leeward residents who wanted to visit friends and relatives on the windward side had to take a winding trail up the Nu'uanu Valley, where it terminated at a sheer cliff. From there slither down the cliffs to the plains below. With the completion of the Pali Road, a place of fear became a place of beauty. Pali Lookout is also where the last major Hawaiian battle took place. (Read the history of the battle HERE)

The view of the windward coast.
On a clear day, I'm sure we could've seen farther.

It was windy at the lookout, and the clouds were just above our heads

The clouds touched the mountain tops. It was mesmerizing!

HO'OMALUHIA PARK BOTANICAL GARDENS

This 400-acre garden backs up against the Ko'olau Mountains.The drive through the gardens got us closer and more intimate with these sheer, fluted cliffs, which were truly gorgeous in the morning light. They were carpeted with every shade of green imaginable! We didn't do a lot of walking here, we mostly stayed in the car and drove from parking lot to parking lot admiring the mountains and the different areas featuring plants from places all over the world.

I took this picture out of the top of the jeep.
We loved looking at these fluted cliffs. Beautiful!

VALLEY OF THE TEMPLES - BYODU-IN TEMPLE

On our way up the Windward Coast, in the northern part of Kane'ohe, is the Valley of the Temples. There are various temples scattered around the area, but in the back is the greatest temple called the Byodo-In. It's a replica of a 950-year-old Buddihist temple in Uji, Japan. As we walked around the grounds and went inside the temple, it felt like we took a mini trip to Japan. The temple is backed by the Ko'olau mountain range and fronted by a large pond and small waterfalls filled with koi fish and swans. It was very serene and quite beautiful there. We bought some fish food at the small souvenir shop beside the temple and fed the eager fish and swans.

The temple is still used today by worshippers. It's customary to ring the toned-bell before entering. In our case, we rang it before leaving the grounds. When one rings the bell, it is considered to be a blessing for a long and healthy life.

The Byodu-In Temple

Julie feeds the poi fish and black swan

Ringing the bell for a long, healthy life

WAIHE'E FALLS HIKE

After leaving the Valley of the Temples and driving up the highway a bit, we came to dirt path that led to a 2-mile hike through the lush rainforest at the foot of the Ko'olau mountain range, and ended at the base of the 30-foot Waihe'e Falls. We put on some bug spray and our tennis shoes and off we went. It started out on an easy, level dirt path. But about a mile into the hike, it got much, much steeper. The path climbed on a constant 750-foot incline. Talk about huffing and puffing... The hike was harder than we thought.

We passed by some interesting things along the way. During most of our hike, there was a pleasant little stream that paralleled us. We figured it probably came from the falls ahead of us. Halfway down the path was a spillway with a swimming hole in the stream. It looked refreshing enough to jump in, but we didn't. We kept walking. We saw a dike tunnel in the side of the mountain. We also saw many banyan trees, and some were colossal! We also got many views along the hike of the valley walls through openings in the trees.

Then we came to it ... but we heard the pounding water first.... Around the corner, though a cluster of trees we saw the Waihe'e Falls. It was magnificent! I had never been this close to a waterfall before. Joshua took off his shoes and jumped under the cascading waters. It was amazing! Well worth the effort to get there.


KUALOA NURSERY AND GARDENS

This nursery and gardens is a macadamia nut farm with a very pretty garden area.This was a short stop on our itinerary today, but we read somewhere that they were very generous with their macadamia nut samples, so we stopped to check it out. In their store, we sampled several dozen different kinds of flavored macadamia nuts. I liked the cinnamon flavored ones so I bought a bag to give to my parents when we got back to Michigan.


KUALOA REGIONAL PARK

This gigantic beach park has an endless lawn, a long ribbon of sand at the water's edge, and a gorgeous mountain backdrop. Probably the prettiest mountain backdrop we had seen at any beach on Oahu. In the distance, across the water is Chinaman's Hat Island. The water was very calm here because the island protects the shore from big waves, perfect for swimming and kayaking. Joshua and I were aching to have a kayak handy so we could take off from the shore and explore this unique-looking island.

We walked around the beach for awhile, Joshua cooled off in the water, and we admired the Chinaman's Hat Island in the distance. We liked this beach park, and would've stayed longer, but wanted to make it to the north shore before dark.

Stunning mountain scenery at the beach

Can you see why it's called Chinaman's Hat Island?

Joshua cooling off and enjoying the scenery

LA'IE BEACH PARK / POUNDERS BEACH

The next stop on our drive was La'ie Beach, locally known as "Pounders". It's a very nice-looking beach that has a lava rock cliff on the right end. As we explored the beach, we saw people climbing up the rocky cliff and fishing from the top, so we made our way up too, and what a view! The powerful, pounding waves were crashing against the rocks below us. We could see why it was nicknamed "Pounders" by the locals.

Enjoying the view atop the cliff

The waves pounded the rocks below us

La'ie Beach below

LUNCH AND LA'IE POINT

We went to lunch at the La'ie McDonalds. I know.. McDonalds, right? But it was unique - Among the chain's more interesting buildings so it caught our eye as we were driving by. It was formerly a lodge restaurant, so it looks like a Polynesian-type lodge. Inside is a fish tank, waterfall, outrigger canoe, and head pieces that donned the walls.


After our late lunch, we drove over to La'ie Point. This was a beautiful sight! The point is made up entirely of sandstone, and offshore are many small islands. One long island had a natural arch carved right in the center when a tsunami punched a hole through it in 1946. Pretty neat-looking. The 360-degree vantage point from La'ie Point was grand. We stood on the edge and enjoyed the view for awhile. And since the surf was up, there were crashing waves all around us.

See in the distance, a hole in the island?

A close-up view

The waves were crashing all around us

The view was amazing! The water was so blue.

HUKILAU BEACH

Another beautiful windward beach, but we didn't stay long. We mostly wanted to get a picture with the sign.

Everyone knows the "Hukilau" song, but do you know the story of the hukilau? It's an age-old practice of circling a portion of the ocean with a net, then one group of people would drive fish into that net while another group hauls the fish-laden net out of the water. The Mormon Church use to perform this every month after WWII to help raise funds for the church. It was very popular and attracted lots of locals and tourists. When the Hawaiian government wanted to tax the event in 1970, they stopped doing them. Too bad... It would've been fun to participate in


MALAEKAHANA BEACH PARK AND GOAT ISLAND

This beach park had a long sandy beach, and was somewhat hidden from the highway. Just offshore from the beach, only 240 yards away, was "Goat Island". It had two beaches of it's own. We could tell that the island was deserted except for one couple floating around in the water by the island. Joshua said we should go over. I was a little reluctant at first, but then decided I shouldn't pass up an experience like this, so we waded over to the island. We wore water shoes to protect our feet from the reef below us. The water never got above our chest, but the ocean's waves were coming around from both sides of the island and crashing into us as we were wading. Sometimes it was hard to stay upright. We were constantly jumping through the waves to avoid going underwater. Once on the island, we laid in the sand and watched as the sun got closer to the horizon. The other couple left and we had the whole island and beach to ourselves. It's the only time we had an entire beach to ourselves in Hawaii. We enjoyed the solitude. I'm glad Josh talked me into it. It was a fun experience.

We stayed on the island for about an hour before wading back. I kept my camera in the car so it wouldn't get wet, so I didn't take any pictures from the island. Too bad. I found an aerial photo of the island though. See it below.


THE TOWN OF KAHUKU

The first town we came to on the north shore was Kahuku. It's famous for it's shrimp trucks and shacks. Giovanni's Aloha Shrimp Wagon is one of the more popular ones. When we saw it, we stopped to check it out. It was dinnertime and we were getting a little hungry so Joshua got a garlic-flavored shrimp bowl. He wanted the spicy-shrimp, but they were out. He said it the garlic one was good though!


TED'S BAKERY - Chocolate / Haupia Cream Pie

The sun was beginning to get low as we continued driving along the North Shore. We passed a store called "Ted's Bakery" by the side of the road. I remember from one of the Oahu books I read, that their chocolate/haupia cream pies are legendary on the island. I made Joshua turn around so I could buy a piece at the store. Joshua had his shrimp snack, now it was my turn. And boy, was it delicious. They weren't kidding! The crust had coconut baked into it and there was a layer of coconut pudding (haupia) between the cream on top and chocolate on the bottom. After eating this heavenly piece of pie, I actually craved it for the rest of our Hawaiian trip after that. I'll have to find a recipe and make it at home one of these days.


SUNSET BEACH

The sun was just about to sink below the ocean, so we parked at a spot along the beach just down the road from "Ted's Bakery" to watch the sunset. The beach just happened to be named "Sunset Beach", and lots of people were already sitting in the sand waiting for the sun to set. We decided to sit in the jeep and watch it. Sunset Beach is one of the nicer beaches on the North Shore. It has placid warm waters during the summer and fantastic waves in the winter, popular for surfers. I wish we would've had time to frolic on this dreamy beach, but it was getting late, so after the sun was well below the horizon, we drove back to Waikiki. We decided to come back the next afternoon and explore more of the North Shore while it was light again.

Julie at Sunset beach, hanging out from the top of the jeep

North Shore sunset - Love the reflection on the water!


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